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Here are some reasons why.
It's been kind of funny to watch the coverage of Conde Nast's decision to shut down Gourmet magazine. Most coverage seems to try to find a larger meaning, without going to the obvious story that it's just part of the decline of print media.
ABC News led with something like "a beloved magazine is disappearing from kitchen tables." But that's wrong--Gourmet was never in the kitchen. Cook's Illustrated is in the kitchen. Saveur is on the coffee table (that's not to knock it--it's a beautiful magazine with great stories about authentic cuisine, though I expect the recipes are rarely made). Eating Well is maybe in the kitchen, or on the bedside table as you actually plan your menu for the week. I could try to say something like Gourmet was in the magazine rack in the bathroom, but that's meaner than I intend. Obviously, Gourmet was on the magazine rack at the newsstand, and that's why it is gone.
It had one of the best food editors, Ruth Reichl, and yet it didn't seem like her magazine. It lacked any real clear voice or point of view. Cook's, like its sister television show makes clear, is about the test kitchen. They make a dish a dozen different ways, tinker with it, and perfect it. Other magazines aim at healthy eating, or true foodie cooking (Saveur will explore how authentic bouillabaisse is made, and tell you where to get good saffron), or even down home cooking like Cook's Country. Gourmet, like Bon Appetit (the title Conde Nast kept) really lacked any clear direction (go check out the website for the magazines, Epicurious and you'll see).
Just as I argue that the future of newspapers lies in covering local and neighborhood stories very well (even as most papers are cutting back on local staffs and trying to hold on to their D.C. bureaus), I think the future of magazines is in having a clear point of view, while still covering a fairly broad range of topics.
Comments
Gourmet Mag
Nice little piece, David. If you plan on firing off a few paragraphs every time an interesting magazine dies ... you're going to have a lot of work to do in the coming years.
I'm actually surprised that Conde Nast considered dropping the axe on Bon Appetit. It was apparently a close call. I've never looked at Gourmet magazine, but I've thumbed through Bon Appetit often, and we even once had a gift subscription from my mother-in-law. I can't say I noticed if the magazine had a clear focus, but I like it. Bon Appetit is a great starter mag for aspiring foodies. To me, the magazine is all about the recipes, and the glorious photos that make the food look so good.
I made a yam crumble dish of some sort with real maple syrup last Christmas. Got the recipe out of Bon Appetit (though I found it online from Epicurious). It was awesome, probably the best dish I've ever made. In five or 10 years, that might be all that's left of that fine magazine — the online recipes. It'd be a shame, though.
Fact is, we no longer live in a media culture that can support dozens of magazines covering the same genre. A few cooking mags will survive, but most will not. For better or worse, that's the market at work.
"A yam crumble dish of some sort with real maple syrup"
That sounds like the most horrific thing I've ever heard. Forget your ideology. It's your tastebuds that I find objectionable.
Tastebuds
Typical elitist liberal response. ;-)
You're off my Christmas list, pal. And ... you don't know what you're missing. The dish was divine.
Meh
I've always been against sweet yams. It makes me weird, I suppose. It's only in the last year that I've been able to eat a simple baked sweet potato with a little butter. Any attempts to sweeten them, though, repulse me. Can't explain it.
Mmm. Baked sweet potato...
FWIW, baked sweet potatoes are much healthier than your standard starchy white ones. Lots of fiber. And plenty of yummy goodness. (Not that I object to your standard russets, golden yukons, news, et al.)
Amaze your wife by making...
This: http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Cajun-Crabmeat-Au-Gratin/Detail.aspx